Signed Crown Trifari Poured Glass White Dogwood Flower Brooch

This is a Signed Crown Trifari white poured glass Dogwood Flower Brooch. Its petal edging, center comb, and brooch backing is gold filled in its entirety. There is some visible chipping in the poured glass. The Signature is worn, possibly from continuous rubbing, making it a little difficult to see the “Crowned 'T' “ and the last lower case “i”. This piece measures approximately 1 ¾ “ in length and 1 ¼” in diameter ( flower head). Good condition although in need of slight cleaning. Lastly, its featured “crown” over the “T” dates its production circa 1950.

On Sale: $40
Vintage Puritan

 

Signed Krementz 14kt Rolled Gold Overlay Earrings

The below is a pair of Signed Krementz 14kt Rolled Gold Overlay Earrings. Its original box, although stained, is included. The earrings are screw back types with 3 clear rhinestones set over stemmed leaf motifs. Each earring measures approximately 1 in length and 1/2” in width. In good condition with minor scratches visible with a loupe. The backing texture is smooth, an indicator of an authentic vintage piece. Its bold print Krementz Signature dates this piece between 1884 ( the year Krementz & Co. went into production) and 1896 ( the year an “umbrella” mark was added).

On Sale: $40
Vintage Puritan Etsy Shop

 

 

 

Signed Eisenberg Silver Tone Rhinestone Pendant (SOLD)

The above is a Signed Eisenberg silver tone clear rhinestone pendant. It features a larger faceted triangle rhinestone “hugged” by a silver ribbon which is studded with 4 smaller graduated clear pave rhinestones. This piece measures approximately 1/2” in length and width. The backing texture is smooth, an indicator of an authentic vintage piece. Because Eisenberg production stamps overlapped in terms of date, this piece was most likely produced between the years of 1945 and 1950. It is in good condition notwithstanding some visibly minor scratching on the backing.

On Sale: $40 (SOLD)
Vintage Puritan Etsy Shop

Signed Krementz Gold Filled Bleeding Heart Earrings

These are a pair of Signed Krementz Gold Filled Bleeding Heart Faux Pearl Earrings. The pearls are top down graduated with the smallest of the two placed on the heart, and the largest placed on the stem. The earrings are screw back and in good condition but could use some cleaning. Its bold print Krementz Signature dates this piece between 1884 ( the year Krementz & Co. went into production) and 1896 ( the year an “umbrella” mark was added).

On Sale: $30
Vintage Puritan Etsy Shop

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Signed Crown Trifari Sterling Dancing Tasha Brooch

This is a Crown Trifari Sterling (Silver) Dancing Tasha Brooch. Trifari had several designers in the past, one of them by the name of Alfred Philippe. He designed a matching set of brooches called “Sasha and Tasha”, two Russian Cossack Dancers. The brooches feature gold tone vermeil bodies and simulated pearls for the head. Further research shows that they were patented in 1947 and were originally known as #147865 ( Tasha) and #147866 ( Sasha). She measures approximately 1 3/4” in length. As you see in the provided photos, Tasha sports a red (cut glass) hat, a blouse with 14 clear pave rhinestones, a 5 rhinestone speckled skirt, and 3 clear pave rhinestones on her feet. However, both Tasha and Sasha have been seen with various hat colors; blue, green, red. Unfortunately, I was unable to reunite this Tasha with her partner. There is some damage to the simulated pearl and the entire piece needs cleaning as there is a lot of patina. Otherwise it is in good condition and there is no rough texture on its backing, indicating it to be an authentic vintage piece.

On Sale $150
Vintage Puritan Etsy Shop

 

                            

 

 

Vintage Jewelry Terminology and Anatomy

Here are a list of basic terms that you will often come across in my blog. This is no way a complete list of terms but it should, nevertheless, help you learn more about (vintage) jewelry. These terms and more are provided in the Jewelry.com "Glossary of Jewelry Terms" website.


Facet -- Any flat polished surface of a diamond or gemstone. This style of cutting gives the stone many small faces at varying angles to one another. The placement, angle and shape of each facet are carefully planned and executed to show the stone's inherent beauty, fire, color, and brilliance to the fullest advantage.

Inclusion -- "Internal characteristics" apparent to a trained or professional eye at 10x magnification. Inclusions can be bubbles, crystals, carbon spots, feathers, clouds, pinpoints, or other impurities, or even cracks and abrasions. They are what make a diamond so unique, as a fingerprint does for a person.

Loupe -- Any small magnifying glass mounted for hand use, to hold up to the eye socket or attach to a pair of glasses.

Marquise shape -- A double-pointed, boat-shaped stone that is long and thin with gently curved sides coming to a point on either end. Marquise is part of the brilliant-cut family; ideally cut it has 58 facets.

Pave -- A type of setting where a number of small stones are set together. It literally means paved with diamonds.

Pear shape -- Term used to describe any diamond whose girdle outline resembles a pear shape. Ideally cut pear shapes have 58 facets.

Prong or claw setting -- The metal tip or bead that actually touches the stone and holds it into place. This setting usually consists of four or six claws that cradle the stone. Because this setting allows the maximum amount of light to enter a stone from all angles, it sometimes can make a diamond appear larger and more brilliant than its actual weight. This setting can also hold larger diamonds more securely.

Vintage Costume Jewelry Identification. Is it the real thing?,

First and foremost I would like to send out a warning to buyers: there are ALOT of reproduction/fake vintage/costume jewelry pieces out there. Even worse: there are ALOT ( if not as many) sellers profitting from these reproductions. Some sell fake pieces unknowingly. Others...are pretty much hoping you can't tell the difference and will buy on impulse. The outrageous thing is how much reproduction pieces will sell for. It is one thing to ask and/or pay $10-$15 for a fake piece, but a completely other thing to ask and/or pay $200 for one.

I absolutely abhor reproduction/fake costume jewelry and as a result WILL NOT (knowingly) sell them. I spend hours at a time studying the differences and sifting through the “dirt” to find authentic pieces.

Unless buying a reproduction is of no matter to you feel free to skip the rest of the following. If, however, you do please read on. Because your time is limited and therefore valuable, I will try to keep my tips the most basic and to the point.

Tips for dentifying “reproduction/fake” vintage/costume jewelry. These tips apply to earrings, necklaces, bracelets, brooches, and lapels.

1. Backings: always look at the back of the piece for visibly striated (lined) texture. Authentic backings will be smooth.
2. Stamp/Hallmarks/Signatures: visibly molded (or cast) and raised. Authentic will have visible signs of an impression even if stamped on a plaque. These are changed from decade to decade within Brand names. They have always,however, remained “stamped”.
   
3. Size: much larger in size than an authentic piece, up to 3 times as large
   
4. Stones (pearls excluded): "murky", visibly glued, lacking prongs to hold in the stone inside its setting
   
5. Wear and tear: “too new, too good to be true”. Authentic pieces will always have some damage even if a little patina. Scratches, chipping, missing stones, discolorations...wouldn't be “vintage” without them.

REAL.
Tip # 3. Take a good look at the clarity of the rhinestones as well as the length and bending of the prongs. 



REAL.
Tip # 1. The back is smooth ( most likely Rhodium).
Tip # 2. Hallmark/Signature is clear and stamped or impressed onto the piece.
Tip #5. Piece does not appear to be in "mint" condition but rather worn with slight scratches, and some patina instead. 



 

 

 

FAKE.

Tip# 3. Look at the "murkiness" of the stones ( most likely plastic). Prongs are not purposed to hold in the stone because the stones are glued.

 

 

FAKE.

Tip #1. Back has striated (lined) texturing.

Tip #2. Hallmark/Signature has the appearance of having been molded, raised letters surrounded by an equally raised plaque. Letters are also not very clear.

With a little practice you will find it easier and easier to spot fakes. With this knowledge I hope you too will grow to hate reproduction vintage as much as I do.

Please enjoy my ever growing collection.

Happy hunting!